Watering seems simple, but it's one of the most overlooked facets of a successful garden. The amount of advice can be overwhelming: don't water too much, water in the morning, don’t water overhead, only water from the base. Let's take a look and put it all (or most of it) down in one place.

Spoiler Alert: There is No Right or Wrong Way

First, relax and take a deep breath. There is no right or wrong way to water. Some ways are more effective and efficient, and some methods are indeed better for a given situation. But remember, rain falls from the sky without being scheduled by humans, which works fine much of the time. 

The "right" way to water your garden is to ensure it receives sufficient moisture when needed and in a way that works with your schedule and life. After all, most of us have other tasks besides lovingly providing customized water doses to individual plants in the veggie patch. 

How plants take in water from the soil 

Water is taken up by plant roots through a combination of osmosis and capillary action. Osmosis is water moving from an area of higher concentration—the soil around the roots—to an area of lower concentration–the inside of the root–across a membrane. Once inside the root, other forces pull water uphill against gravity. Without sufficient water in the soil, osmosis can't happen. 

We know from experience the soil near the surface dries quicker, due to evaporation, than that farther down. We want our plant's roots to grow deep, where they'll have a better and more constant moisture supply, and we won't have to intervene as often. 

When we water deeply but less frequently, we train the plant's roots to grow deeply, toward an area of higher moisture. It’s a plant trait called hydrotropism. Conversely, if we water often but shallowly, just wetting the surface, we train the roots to stay shallow; the plant needs more frequent irrigation and is less drought tolerant. Whatever methods and equipment we use, it’s important to water deeply for lasting effect.

Watering Techniques and Equipment

It's easy to become overwhelmed by the many options for getting water to your plants. Humans have been stressing over watering plants since we first learned agriculture. All of the methods below work, so choose one that fits you and your garden's size. Drip tape is overkill for three tomatoes in pots on the deck. Using only a watering can will turn a pleasant task into drudgery in a large garden.

Hose and Nozzle

Container gardens on the deck or patio can be handily watered with a wand and a high-quality nozzle attached to the hose. A good hose and nozzle also works well for a few raised beds. A flexible, cloth-type hose is less likely to get a life of its own, coiling up in the air and damaging plants as you pull it around. Cheap vinyl hoses are fine for running from the faucet to the pool, but hard to manage around plants.

The wand should be long enough to allow you to water at the base of the plants without bending over. A nozzle with a high flow but a gentle pattern will speed up the task. Spend the extra ten bucks on a good nozzle. It's worth it in time saved.

Overhead irrigation

Overhead sprinklers work; don't let social media tell you they don't. For most of modern gardening history, that's all we had. They are more wasteful of water than other methods but are also super simple to set up and use. Many people talk about overhead sprinklers like they automatically doom your plants to powdery mildew issues, but remember, the rain comes from above and gets all over your plant's leaves too. 

If you choose an overhead sprinkler, watering in the morning will help reduce waste and potential fungal issues. Don't worry about the water droplets sunburning your plant leaves on a sunny day—that's a myth. Higher-end overhead sprinklers are adjustable, allowing you to limit their pattern to match the size and shape of your garden.

Watering at the base

Drip lines, drip tapes, and soaker hoses are targeted irrigation systems that provide a high level of control. The water is applied only at the base of the plants, keeping the foliage dry to minimize evaporation and mildew issues and reduce wasted water. They are a slow-release watering system, allowing water to soak in as it’s dispensed. 

Most of these products have a rated water output at each hole, or per linear foot. For example, drip tape emitters commonly release 0.25 or 0.33 gallons per hour. However, the actual output will vary widely depending on your water pressure.  

To figure out how long to leave them on, check water penetration at the base of a plant under the dripper. Write down the starting time and run the system until the water has penetrated at least six inches down. That’s your default amount of time to run the system in the future. While these systems require some setup and planning, and you'll have hoses and lines running around the garden, they are fantastic and water-wise.

Old Faithful—the watering can

Don't forget the old watering can. A high-quality watering can is the OG of garden watering, and it still works. You can't beat an old watering can with a good spout for smaller gardens, isolated plants, or a bit of zen while you talk to the flowers. It's also handy for applying fertilizer. 

Resist the temptation to move on as soon as the soil is wet. Again, check the water penetration in the soil. You’ll need to apply more than you think. With a watering can, try this idea: water once, and then return a few minutes later and water the same plant again. It softens the soil surface, and helps the water soak in rather than running off. The same idea works with a hose and nozzle as well, especially for containers.

When to Water Your Garden

Determining when your plants need water is the finesse part of this process. It doesn't run on a set schedule or a day of the week, and a plant’s needs change throughout the growing season. Young plants like seedlings and transplants need water more frequently because their small root systems are shallow and more susceptible to drying out in the top inch or two of soil. 

Later in the season, deeply rooted plants may not need watering between rains, but fruiting crops like beans, cucumbers, and tomatoes will need more water, especially when they are in full production mode. Uneven watering once tomatoes are hanging on the vine causes them to split and can also cause issues with blossom end rot. 

So, how can we tell? My favorite method is a daily walk in the garden—who doesn't need more of that in their life—and to check the soil with my finger. That's it. Sure, in the back of my mind, I'm thinking about how many days it has been since the last significant rain, how hot the temps have been, and all that. But really, I'm looking at the plants and testing the soil an inch or two down with my finger. The plants are doing fine if it feels cool and moist past my first knuckle. I'll plan on watering if it's starting to feel warm and dry. 

Some places in your garden will need more watering than others. For example, you may have a succession crop of young plants going, and they'll need more attention than the large, roaming squash vines or patch of zinnias that shades its own soil. An area receiving hot afternoon sun will need more frequent watering than a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade. 

Start with the old advice that your garden needs an inch of water per week, then adjust that for hot, dry weather or sandy soils. A rain gauge and a garden journal can really help you organize your weather tracking and other notes. 

Time of Day Matters

Gardeners love to argue about what time of day to water. To put it simply, watering in the morning is the most effective for several reasons. Plants have access to water throughout the heat of the day, soil and leaf surfaces can dry before the cool and more humid night air arrives, reducing fungal issues, and water filters down into the soil rather than evaporating in the hot midday sun.

But watering in the morning doesn't work for everyone. If you can't water until after work, it's fine. Don't fear that all will be lost. If watering in the early morning isn't in the cards for you, consider setting up an irrigation system on a timer. Occasionally, I'll even water at midday if I didn't water in the morning and the day is hotter than anticipated. Even if the plants look a little wilted, do the finger test. If the soil moisture is adequate but they look droopy, they’ll be fine as soon as evening comes. 

Providing sufficient water to our gardens while not drowning plants is the easiest way to ensure vigorous, resilient, and prolific plants. A tomato can tolerate less-than-perfect soil, but without enough water, it will fail. Mulch applied over bare soil will alleviate much of the watering chore, as will a healthy dose of compost worked in every spring. Do the daily garden walk, and you'll soon be comfortable judging when your plants do and don't need a drink. And always water deeply.